Singapore to Malacca and back

So, more about the Christmas holiday.

My wife had suggested a side trip to Malacca when planning this holiday.   Malacca?  I knew of the Malacca Straits, but didn't know there was a town of that name, and that it was getting well known as a tourist destination.  (It has a World Heritage listing since 2008.)

We booked a bus from Singapore, which should in theory take only about 3 hours to make the trip across the causeway and up the good quality freeway towards the West Coast of Malaysia.  In practice, however, given the crush of vehicles and people trying to get through immigration (especially in the Christmas period) it took us pretty much 5 to 6 hours in each direction.

On the way up, we were stuck in a long line of vehicles to get into immigration control; on the way back, the bus got into the building OK, only to have the humans stuck in a ridiculously inefficient processing line run by the Singaporeans.

About the Singaporean re-entry:  I suspect their computer system was having some sort of breakdown.   After waiting in a slow moving line for perhaps 20 minutes, I was one of the people whisked away upstairs when the downstairs immigration officer said her computer would not "scan" my passport.  While waiting for the escort to take you upstairs, no one in the line behind you would be processed.  In the upstairs room, it was a case of sitting with 20 or so others, all perhaps slightly anxious as to why they were the ones singled out, and waiting 20 minutes before getting to desk where after a few simple questions were asked, my thumbs scanned, and after another 10 minute wait, escorted back downstairs, where I found my wife was just reaching the counter from the line she had been standing in!   Our bus had long left, but we found another from the same company which let us on to complete the trip.    My wife was sufficiently annoyed to say if we visit Malacca again, we should do it via Kuala Lumpur.   (I think that the situation must have been unusual, however, because the Singaporean minister responsible did turn up on the TV news apologising for delays, saying many staff were off sick and those that were working were doing extremely long hours, etc.)

Back to Malacca itself.  Here's the centre of the historic town, with (still operating) Church from 1753, beside the old governor's complex, which is now a museum:

A short history of the place:  tiny fishing village on a river; Islamic Sultanate and the start of lots of trade;  Portuguese arrive and pretend to be nice, then give up and take it by force;  Dutch for some reason take it over next; Dutch hand it over to Britain as part of some deal with what's going on in Europe;  Britain concentrates more on establishing Singapore as the regional trade centre; Malaysia created and Bob's your Iman. So to speak.

So, yeah, a lot of history in a pretty small package.

The town has a smallish river which has pleasant pathways and cafes beside it.  It's one of many towns or cities that some have tried to label "Venice of the East" (see the complete list at Wikipedia.)

Note the pub on the other side of the river:  it's (from memory) 150 years old and, more importantly, has clean toilets:

 

 

Taking a boat ride on the river is one of the mandatory tourist things to do, and it is pleasant, especially of an evening.

The other famous district is the adjacent Jonker Street, which is busy during the day and has lots of shops that reminded me quite a bit of Georgetown on Penang, which I had visited in the 1980's:

Hmm - it looks a bit shabbier in photos than it feels in real life.  It has night markets on Fridays which are supposed to be especially good, but we did something else that night, explained below.

The place is pretty keen to explain its history, with one of the venues being this imitation of a Portuguese trading ship, beside the river (housing a museum inside):

 

 There's the remains of old buildings and churches:



and, like Singapore, land being reclaimed from the ocean for development:

We stayed at the Hilton Double Tree, which we knew was going to be a little out of the centre of town, and the view of the area around it wasn't all that inspiring:




The rooms were large and comfortable, with that rather silly idea of a glass shower wall with a blind that must be lowered to ensure privacy.   The big screen TV was a generous size for a hotel.  But the airconditioning at night was impossible to get right - the room always got too warm, perhaps because the aircon was motion sensored as an economy thing?   Also - the curse of the modern hotel:  no sheets, just doonas with covers they clean.   I wish I could back in time and track down whoever it was who popularised that as a washing saving for hotels.  

But, man, did it do a good breakfast buffet.   I had probably the best beef rendang I've ever had (yes, for breakfast), but also get a chicken's foot and dim sum too.

In fact, the best thing about Malacca was the food.  Cheap, tasty and the distinctive sort of mash up of cuisines known an nyonya.

We ate fish in a tamarind sauce and some sort of prawns at Big Nyonya - it was all delicious - for (I think) $40 for four.

Surprisingly, there are still ethnic Portuguese (well, with a fair bit of intermarriage, apparently) living there, and on the Friday night, instead of going to Jonker Street, we went to the Portuguese settlement, where the hawker style outdoor eating has a mini Christ the Redeemer to greet you:

 

The place was lively: there were fireworks being sold and let off by kids (and me) over the water; the food tasty and cheap (we had stingray!), and just a great, distinctive atmosphere, especially within Malaysia.

When you walk out through the surrounding houses at Christmas, many are lit up in very Christian style:




This part of town is pretty close to the Doubletree Hilton, but the shambolic and dangerous state of footpaths throughout the town makes the night walk a pretty scary one - you have to be very, very alert to not tripping over something and falling into one of the smelly, tropical deep drains that pass for gutters. These drains certainly lend a distinctive aroma to the Asian tropics - I remembered them from Georgetown in the 1980's too.  You get the occasional whiff of ripeness from Singaporean drains, but nothing like the intensity you can find from many of them in Malaysia.  (My son was particularly impressed with a wide one which was bubbling from something.  Methane production, perhaps?)

Here's the view to the Portuguese settlement from the building next the Hilton, which has a viewing platform and bar at the top - see where the jetty is? - the food place is just behind that.



As for my impression of Malaysia generally though:   I'm not entirely sure they have the hang of this tourism thing.  Staff at the Hilton were nice, but in quite a few instances, seemed a tad incompetent.  It took two guys about 15 minutes to work out how to make a Singapore Sling at the bar the staff were not allowed to call a bar.  (Seriously, it look exactly like any well stocked hotel bar in the world.)  I should mention that my wife and I were the only people in the bar, so the 15 min did seem rather excessive, even with the free peanuts.   Also, the hotel reception was on the 12th floor, but curiously, on the ground floor, if the concierge was busy, there was not a simple sign indicting you had to catch the life to find your way to the hotel.

The worst thing about Malaysia by far:   the awful state of most public toilets, or at least the stalls, given the use of hoses in lieu of toilet paper.  These devises mean that toilets are just ridiculously wet all the time; I felt really sorry for women who have no choice other than try to keep clothes from brushing on the dank floors.

I see from Googling the topic "are Malaysian toilets the worst in the world" that many people think they are.  (Although I strongly suspect that India and China might take the gold - or brown? - medal for that.)   It may be more a case of "the worst maintained, wettest flushing public toilets in the world", but in any event, if the country wants a better tourist image, this would be a good place to start.

Funnily enough, in Malaysia as in Singapore, I found ethnic Chinese seemed to be cheerier.  Quite a lot of Malay people carry a vague air of unhappiness, it seemed to me.  The taxi drivers were OK, but the cars were pretty old.  I even tried talking to one driver about the world's surprise at Mahathir's election, only to find out that he said it all happened due to a corrupt payment of money, and he hated all politicians!

Although I loved the Hilton's breakfast buffet, and we also had one very good evening meal there too, I would recommend people stay in one of the other hotels within more comfortable walking distance to the old centre of town.  (There was a shuttle bus that left the Hilton on the hour, but catching it back to the hotel turned out to be very hit or miss.  And finding a taxi proved tricky too.   If it wasn't so hot and humid, walking the couple of km back to the hotel would not be such an issue, but in the daytime, it certainly is.)

There is plenty of choice in hotels.   But I did notice a fancy looking, small hotel while on the river boat - the 1825 Gallery Hotel - and I wouldn't mind staying there next time.

As with Singapore, the heat out in the middle of the day means you get to see less per day than you might expect.   There is quite a lot I didn't get to see in the 2 full days were there, and I wouldn't mind going back.

I didn't for a ride on one of the garish, tourist trishaw things, which the town is also renowned for:

So, maybe I do that if I go back.  (The Malay tourists still looked a bit unhappy to me while they took the ride.) 

And finally, just a photo of a pretty lotus, taken in Jonker Street, I think:

I might update this later, if I think of things I have forgotten...

Updates:  

*  The most overrated and undeservedly popular dish in all of Asian is to be found here with a slight variation (the rice comes in balls) - Hainese chicken rice.    A close relative of Singaporean chicken rice, there is a (not very fancy) restaurant (perhaps one of a chain?) which features photos of celebrities and politicians eating there - God knows why.    I do not understand why this dish has any fame at all - overly simple,  sure it's edible but it just has no special merit to my taste buds whatsoever.   Eat other stuff.

Floods and economics considered

The recent monsoonal rainfall event in North Queensland has certainly been devastating to the cattle industry:

The latest estimate is that 500,000 cattle have perished in the floods. That is a death toll of biblical proportions.

At a value of $1000 a head, that’s $500 million worth of livestock gone.

But this is about more than the dollars.

Many of these cattle have been kept alive by desperate farmers who have battled seven years of drought — drought that continues despite one dump of rain. They have spent thousands of dollars on fodder they can no longer remember once growing themselves.

The toll on those farmers is enormous. Unthinkable even.

Agforce chief executive Michael Guerin rightly described it as a “massive humanitarian crisis”.
“The loss of hundreds of thousands of cattle after five, six, seven years of drought is a debilitating blow, not just to individual farmers, but to rural communities,” said Mr Guerin, whose organisation is the state farming association.

Looking to the future, the CSIRO openly admits that it is very difficult to be sure of the long term rainfall effects of climate change in Australia.   I thought they generally expected North Australia to get wetter, but Southern Australia to dry out, but the Climate Change in Australia website says this about the Monsoonal North:

Providing confident rainfall projections for the Monsoonal North cluster is difficult because global climate models offer diverse results, and models have shortcomings in resolving some tropical processes. Natural climate variability is projected to remain the major driver of rainfall changes in the next few decades.

By late in the century, rainfall projections have low confidence. Potential summer rainfall changes are approximately -15 to +10 per cent under an intermediate emission scenario (RCP4.5) and approximately -25 to +20 per cent under a high scenario (RCP8.5). Per cent changes are much larger in winter in some models, but these changes are less reliable because average winter rainfall is very low.

Impact assessment in this region should consider the risk of both a drier and wetter climate.

They do, however, expect extreme rainfall events to increase:

Despite uncertainty in future projections of total rainfall for the Monsoonal North cluster, an understanding of the physical processes that cause extreme rainfall, coupled with modelled projections, indicate with high confidence a future increase in the intensity of extreme rainfall events. However, the magnitude of the increases cannot be confidently projected.

Drought will continue to be a feature of the regional climate variability, but projected changes are uncertain.

In terms of risk, let me muse this:   the problem is surely with the frequency with which extremes occur - if a flood of this kind that formerly happened only once in (say) 100 - 300 years starts to occur 2 to 3 times within a lifetime (say, every 20 - 30 years), you can readily imagine that certain agricultural enterprises will just abandon that form of land use due to the "wipeouts" coming at such a rate that it becomes too much of a risk, even if you can get some good years out of it in the intervening years.

This is why I am completely sceptical of economic predictions of the effect of climate change:  even if you make guesses on whether certain regions become generally wetter or drier (and therefore more or less potentially agriculturally productive), the confounding factor is in the details of the frequency of wet or dry disasters within the big picture.  

There's no way of confidently predicting that at the moment, so how can you deal with it in economic models?

Mars One on the way out

I was dismissing the Mars One project as an obvious bit of PR flim flam back in 2015, and I see that it is finally looking as if it is on its last legs.  Although there is a mystery investor who may be stepping in, apparently.

I wouldn't put it past being Peter Theil - he's nutty and rich enough.

Singapore holiday - Part 1

Well, let's get going with a post about my recent Christmas holiday to Singapore, with side trip to Malacca.

I hadn't been to Singapore for about 17 years, and although I have probably been there three times before, they were all fairly brief stays.  Maybe 2 to 3 nights each?

It has changed a lot since the 1980's when I first went there.

This time, we stayed down in the Chinatown area, which, stupidly, I don't think I had ever wandered into before.  To be perfectly honest, in previous trips, I find it hard remembering going anywhere much further afield than Orchard Road and the area around Raffles.  (I did actually spend one night at the famous hotel, alone, in the 1980's, no doubt before the last couple of renovations.  The place is yet again under refurbishment, to re-open this year.) 

Anyhow, given the extent of the MRT system now, staying in any of the districts is convenient, but the streets of Chinatown area are pretty attractive in that old Asian terrace house sort of way:

 



That large apartment building you can see - here's a better view from our hotel window (the Amara Hotel, which I highly recommend.)

Singapore loves spectacular and interesting architecture, of course, and that rooftop garden spanning 6 tower blocks reminded me of a poor (OK, modest income) man's Marina Bay Sands Hotel rooftop.

I went for a walk towards that building and found out, completely fortuitously, that you can go to the end block on the left and get a ticket from a tiny,  hidden office to go to the rooftop garden decks for all of $5 (I think).   So the next day, I did exactly that, and took some panorama shots which will look a bit crappy here, but good if not compressed to fit inside Blogger.  (You can click to make them bigger, though.)

The rooftop gardens are nicely kept and quiet - there is no pool (only a imitation one!)


and the area is really for the residents, as this not exactly promoted as a tourist attraction.  The views are very spectacular, though, and I was very happy with the serendipitous discovery that I could get up there:










The thing I had forgotten about Singapore is that, although it's small and now super easy to get around, the reason I had been there a few times before and never got around to doing the tourist hits like the zoo and Sentosa Island is because the ridiculous humidity means you just want to be indoors between 10 am and 6pm, and getting inside good airconditioning makes it difficult to go outside again.

Fortunately, the biggest tourist attraction now - the Gardens by the Bay, behind the Marina Bay Sands Hotel - has air-conditioned conservatories which are spectacular and, of course, very popular:

I didn't realise that Singapore did Christmas with an intensity which I suspect is only surpassed by European countries.  In the gardens outside the conservatories:

If you're wondering what the stuff in the air is, it's fake snow (sort of soap foam, I think) that gets blown out at the end of the Christmas music and light show.   People find it exciting, making fake snow in 25 degrees and high humidity - who am I to question the logic of it!

And you know what - that was the only big tourist attraction we got to!   Still haven't been to the zoo or Sentosa.  But we did see more spectacular architecture:



I love the way so many buildings incorporate plants - including this hotel, near ours in Chinatown, nearly completely vine covered.

And, of course, there is the spectacular Marina Bay Sands Hotel with fancy shopping centre below it:

 









I was interested to read about the engineering of the building - the infinity pools on the top deck presented a special challenge:

Keeping an edge straight and level is hard enough, but let’s make it harder by putting the pools on top of three tall towers. We know a pool this size is going to be heavy. Yes, we know the towers are going to sink over time as their foundation cause the clayey earth and landfill to shift. Each will subside at a different rate, and each tower may rotate. You can’t expect the ground under each tower to be of even density and hardness. Yes, the wind will cause the maximum deflection at the top of the towers, also differently for each tower. But you’re engineers. You’ll figure something out. That infinity pool must work.

The weight of the pool was going to be staggering. When full, the three pools held 380,000 gallons (1.44 million liters) of water. Add to that the 422,000 pounds (191,000 kgs) of stainless steel that formed the bulk of the pool structure, and then the 250.000 ceramic tiles cemented on…

Support of the stationary weight was one thing, and keeping the whole deal flat was another. Arup, the firm hired to complete structural analysis of the towers, could handle stationary weight. Since they were roof top pools, a specialist was brought in: Natare Corp., a pool manufacturer on the other side of the world in Indiana. Natare devised a system of hydraulic jacks, 500 of them, that would level the pool no matter the movement of the towers. Though the lateral movement of the towers could be almost 20 in, the jacks were able to keep the wall to within 4 mm over the entire 478 ft length (146 m).

That ride in the shopping centre looked a bit too "Las Vegas" to me, but its fun to watch the swirling water from above anyway.    The public areas outside of the hotel and shopping centre are very attractive, though:

 

The Cathedral of the Good Shepherd is one of the few old buildings I photographed - mainly because I really don't think it looks particularly Catholic in architectural design.   (Looks more like what I imagine would be American Episcopal.)   But no, I see from its website that it's always been Catholic.    It was full to overflowing on Christmas Day, and I stood outside in the still withering humidity at 6pm listening to a very cloying American style sermon, as it happens.  I don't know whether the Singaporean Church stands in terms of the current slow moving crisis between modernisers and conservatives - it would be interesting to know.    You would think the Chinese in it would not be eager to normalise gay relationships - but then again, I know of a gay chinese couple (from Singapore originally) in Australia who have been making babies via surrogacy - so who knows.

 

Oh, here's another old-ish building - the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple in Chinatown [wait a minute - no it's not - I didn't read carefully about it, obviously - it was only started to be built in 2005! I thought I had read it was an old, refurbished temple, but apparently not.]   Anyway, it which has some massive works going on beside it at the moment, detracting a bit from the aesthetics.

We stopped during a rather popular looking service was going on:

 

Singapore seems keen to promote itself as clean and green - certainly, I was on the look out for the otters that are now famous, but I never spotted them.  I did see movement in the bushes beside the water at Gardens by the Bay, and thought it might be one, but it turned out to be a monitor lizard instead: 

The cutest wild animal I got to see was a squirrel:

I had never known they were on Singapore, although I had read about an Asian squirrel colony that had set itself up in Perth some years.

There is much more to be said about Singapore and how much I like it, despite the heat.   Here's a list of various thoughts:

*  on the downside, apart from window shopping, it really is hard to find anything free to do that is in airconditioned comfort.  I think every single art gallery and museum has an entry fee:  the Singaporean government seem to have no concept of completely funding such facilities, and despite its riches, moneyed Singaporean families don't seem to have spent their money this way either.  Anyway, it still means there is much for me to see.

*  I'm not entirely sold on it being that great a place to eat - I mean, I do tend to worry about the degree of refrigeration used in the cheaper hawker centre outlets, which are also routinely too hot most of the day to be comfortable;  and just before I went on this holiday, a Singaporean couple (not the gay guys mentioned above) recommended I eat in Tangs Department store if I wanted cheap, good food that would be safe to eat.  (I did, and it was good.)   Hotel food tends to be great, of course, and you can do OK in food court outlets in terms of price too.   But overall,  I find Japan is the best country to swoon over food, and never worry about its safety.

* It seems to be that, in broad terms, Chinese Singaporeans are always cheery and good to deal with;  Indian Singaporeans can be OK, but are sometimes grumpy, and Malayas working there are often not particularly cheery at all.   Does this just reflect their general economic standing in the country?

* There are an amazing amount of Australian produce in Singaporean supermarkets now.   The country imports 90% of its food - although I was reading the government is trying to increase self sufficiency in some things.   I think it takes half of its water from Johor as well, although I saw something about a desalination plant on a Youtube video as well.  

*  Tiger Beer is still a good, standard beer.   Craft beer seems not to have had the same impact there yet as in other countries.

*  The MRT is great, although it could do with more ticketing machines in most stations.  

*  Singapore has heated up much more rapidly than the rest of the world in recent decades, but that is acknowledged as being in large part due to the massive urban heat island effect of the place":

The island is heating up twice as fast as the rest of the world - at 0.25 degrees Celsius per decade - according to the Meteorological Service Singapore (MSS). It is almost 1 deg C hotter today than in the 1950s.

 But there is no scepticism at all to be found in Singaporean government websites or media about climate change and the potential threat from it.  In fact, there is a video shown at the end of one of the Gardens by the Bay conservatories which is full of warnings about climate change and the need to address it - and I found that the largely Asian audience was paying close attention to it, too.

Climate change scepticism is a mugs game for American Right wing players and their Australian and English sycophants, primarily.  

Apart from the humidity, I thought it very noticeable that Singapore doesn't seem to have breezes, despite being surrounded by water.  Not sure why that would be, but I see someone else on Reddit saying the same, so it's just not me.

*  Channel News Asia is very good for local Asian news and stories.  There was one about a popular young Iman in Indonesia who is very influential via social media (and he is a convert from Catholicism!)  I must track that down, it was very interesting.


Overall, given that I like stylish urban development, eye popping architecture, fantastic infrastructure, a distinctly pro-environment sentiment about the place, and a mix of cultures that hardly spend any time fighting each other - I really like it.   As someone wrote somewhere, it does have a Disneyland vibe - lets build a new city from the ground up and see how cool we can make it look and work. 

I want to visit again.

I will do a separate post about the side trip to Malacca: this one is long enough.