This beautiful Zen temple is in Takaoka, about a 25 minute local train ride from Toyama. Here are the basic details:
Zuiryuji Temple (瑞龍寺, Zuiryūji) is a Soto Zen Buddhist temple in Takaoka, recognized by the Japanese government as a national treasure. The temple was completed circa 1659 to mourn the death of the retired local lord, Maeda Toshinaga. His mausoleum is situated approximately one kilometer to the east from the temple.
Zuiryuji has a symmetric layout with corridors connecting its buildings in a manner typical of Soto Zen monasteries. The temple is comprised of various buildings, including its imposing Sanmon Gate that meets visitors on their way through the temple's inner grounds.
A rather unique deity worshiped at the temple is Ususama Myo-o, a guardian of Buddhism. A large statue of Ususama Myo-o stands in the Hatto Hall, while a smaller one stands at the entrance to the public washroom. Ususama Myo-o is regarded as the guardian of the washroom and is accredited powers to purify and prevent diseases.
The statue above is a replica of the real, old statue, which is in another part of the complex, and while you can photograph the replica, not so the original. (Which, by the way, is not as brightly coloured as the replica.)
I have now read a delightful and detailed explanation of toilet gods in Japan at a podcast website, and it turns out there was a Shinto, home-grown toilet god, as well as one imported via Buddhism:
You might hear it go by: Kawaya-gami/厠神, Benjo-gami /便所神 or Toire no kamisama/トイレの神様..
There was also the belief that the Benjo gami didn’t like to be seen, so before you entered the outhouse you’d have to cough once to let it know you were there before opening the door so it could hide. Where would it hide? I’ll let you use your imagination on that one.
The god was also thought to be blind. I wonder if that has something to do with where it was hiding? Seriously. These jokes write themselves. I read also sometimes the god wasn’t only blind but also had a red spear. Not sure at all what’s up with that. But a courtesy cough before entering, so the god can hide sounds like the polite thing to do. Oh, one more, another site said the god had no hands.
As for the Buddhist import:
Ususama Myouu wasn’t born out of Japanese history, he originated in India and is recognized in several sects of Buddhism: Tendai, Shingon, Zen, and Nichiren. In Tendai he is one of the great five gods or Myou. In Nichiren he is worshipped as both a toilet god and the fire god. In Indian mythology the god is called Agni, the god of fire. Fire purifies. Toilets are considered places that are unclean and thus need to be purified. So there ya go.
Ususama Myoou is one of the great guardian kings, their names all ending in Myoou. Myoou are super cool, fierce, dramatic, scary. Compared to the other Myoou, Ususama has more varied appearances. Sometimes having six arms, holding various implements, rings, beads, a sword. Tools you’d probably not want to see and contemplate while sitting on the pot. But then again, the Kawaya-gami had that red spear.
You can identify Ususama Myoou because he stands with one foot raised high off the ground, almost as if he doesn’t want to step in something. Ringed in fire, his hair often looks like fire and is blowing upward. He’s got a very angry expression on his face.
Back to my visit to the statue of Ususama Myoou in the temple: while in the room with the real statue, I was a little surprised to see a Japanese man, perhaps in his 50's or 60's, saying a prayer to it.
Now, the Japanese make prayers at Shinto shrines (and Buddhist temples) of all kinds, and I find it one of the more charming things about the country. Much has been written about whether this should count as spirituality, or mere superstition. (After all, it's said that most Japanese will say they don't believe in God, and are "non-religious", but see no contradiction in continuing to offer prayers and buy "good luck" charms and carry out other good fortune seeking rituals at their shrines and temples.)
So, while it is clear that the Japanese don't worry much about the objective reality of the figure they are praying to (or, in the case of Shinto, how a place became "holy" in the first place), it was still a bit surprising to see a deity as unusual as that one, which appears to have a near comical "what have I stepped in?" pose, receiving devotion.
This is typical across so many Asian countries though: in Vietnam, you see prayers being offered to deified old rulers or heroes - some of dubious historicity - with their altars in Buddhist temples; no one has an interest in the historicity of (say) Amitabha Buddha despite him being the key figure of Pure Land Buddhism; and of course there's the whole matter of Hindu gods, none of which (unless you are an Indian PM who thinks Ganesha was the result of advanced ancient Indian surgical techniques) seems real.
Even within Catholicism, a lot of devotion to saints has also had next to no reliable history behind it.
So, if I don't have a problem with, and in a way find it charming that, (say) half of the world's religious people pray to mythological figures, why does it bother me when Christians (like the St Mary's rebels discussed in my last post) fully endorse a "non-realist" version of Jesus or God?
I think - and this is a tentative view - is that Christian non-realism feels like it has a different character to the non-realism of the Asian religions, probably because it undoubtedly started with a strong sense of historicity being at its core, whereas it feels like it was never at the core of the others?
I don't really understand how thoroughly mythological religions create their gods - it has always amused me a little to think that somewhere, someone invented the idea and appearance of their specific household god in ancient Rome, not to mention the more elaborate major gods; but it just seems it must have been a very different process from interpreting the cosmic significance of a living person and their apparent sayings in a way that was very concrete, which I think you can say is the most plausible way Christianity got going.
Anyway, I've been thinking about this for decades now, and I am still not precisely sure where it leads me...













