After a week in Canberra, it was time to start heading north, and I wanted to show the family the Jenolan Caves. I had first visited them on a day trip when I was about 9, and the place left a strong impression. I would have been in my 20's when I went there again, and this time stayed overnight, enjoying a trout dinner in the old art deco dining room. It's a great spot at which I could happily spend days.
The route from Canberra takes you past Lake George (currently empty, I think, but some big wind turbines are to be seen on the other side.) The most interesting part of the drive is the rather lonely road from Goulburn north. As you can see from the map, it really only has one, small town on the way, Taralga:
We stopped there for lunch and had some quite delicious store made pies (chicken and leek for me and my son; I forget what the "girls" had.) Here's the shop (on the right as you head north):
The buildings on the other side of the road (and this is pretty much the centre of town) look like this:
That's a bed and breakfast on the left. There is an old pub nearby with accommodation, and another one further up the road. The general store is pretty small, and the cafes probably only do lunch, but there are meals at the pubs. The
Wikipedia entry says it has a population of 312, which is perhaps smaller than I expected, and they do well to have what they do in the town, then.
The somewhat remote feeling about the place, and unexpected collection of old but relatively well kept buildings, were quite appealing to me. It would seem my favourable impressions
were well founded:
Taralga differs from many towns in that a large proportion of its
existing buildings date from the 1860s to 90s (although now subject to
later uses) and because most of them are of stone construction - built
from the vast number of stones and rocks which litter the volcanic soils
for miles around.
These two combined to produce an architectural style which is unique to
Taralga - not quite Georgian, not quite Victorian - with a tendency to
larger windows and quite substantial construction even for modest
dwellings. It also means that the town retains a special heritage of
particular interest to the traveller.
I am not sure what one would do if you stayed there, but it was the sort of place I felt I should hang around for a couple of days. It sometimes gets snow in winter, apparently, which would make it look particularly pretty.
But on northward, through more pretty empty country, til we got to the famous Jenolan Caves. I like everything about the place, except (I suppose) how busy it can be during holidays. I like the setting:
the old accommodation
the blue water (caused by dissolved limestone) in the pond outside:
even the skinks are a pleasing, golden, colour:
And of course the caves themselves. We only had time for one, and it was the Lucas Cave, the one I first went into when I was a child:
(No, you don't use the ladder, but the maintenance people who do use to change lightbulbs are pretty brave.) It's hard to do justice to the caves with your basic digital camera, but you get the idea:
They say there are still parts of this extensive network of caves still being newly explored, which is quite amazing given how long these have been a tourist attraction (since the 1860's.)
Unfortunately, the day visit was a bit tarnished by a night spent in some bush cabins beside some extremely rowdy young folk from some overseas place - I suspected Iranians. The setting was nice - full of kangaroos and a wide open field, but these young pests were chasing each other around spraying soft drink on each other before it was dark, then the music came on and it was party time til we (actually, my wife) shouted at them at 12.30 am. It would have been better if they were religious Muslims.
Then the trip continued the next day....